Q.  How do I use No-Rosion Cooling System Corrosion Inhibitor?

A.  With your engine off and cool, remove the radiator cap and pour in the proper dose of No-Rosion. Then, start the engine, turn the heat on high, and allow the car to run for at least 10-15 minutes, or until the thermostat is open. This will circulate No-Rosion through the entire system, providing full protection to the radiator, heater core, water pump, cylinder heads, engine block, and intake manifold. Be sure that your coolant level is full.

Q.  What if my cooling system is already full?

A.  Open the radiator petcock, and drain approximately one pint of coolant in order to create sufficient additional capacity. If it is easier, siphon or use a pipette to extract coolant from the top of the radiator.  No-Rosion may also be added to the coolant expansion tank or reservoir, as long as the vehicle is driven regularly. It takes about four to five heat and cool cycles for most expansion tanks to exchange 100% of the fluid contents fully into the bulk cooling system.

Q.  How much No-Rosion is required for complete protection?

A.  The ideal dose is 1 ounce per quart of coolant when added to a 50/50 mix, and 1.5 ounces per quart when added to straight water coolant. So a normal size cooling system having a capacity of 16 quarts (4 gallons) will require 1 bottle of No-Rosion with a 50/50 mix, or 1.5 bottles of No-Rosion with straight water coolant.   

Q.  Can I determine whether my engine coolant contains enough No-Rosion?

A.  Yes. We offer a Coolant Test Packet that can be used for testing for the proper level of No-Rosion. It tests for nitrite, one of the primary corrosion inhibitor ingredients in the No-Rosion formula. Our Coolant Test Packet is a quick, easy, cost-effective way of determining whether the product has been dosed properly, or whether the inhibitors have been depleted from coolant. For more information on this product, please refer to the link at the bottom of this page.

Q.  How often should No-Rosion be added in order to maintain full protection?

A.  The corrosion inhibitors in No-Rosion are depleted over time.  For this reason, it should be added every year or 30,000 miles, whichever comes first. After 5 years, drain, flush, and refill the cooling system, and begin the 5 year cycle over again.

Q.  Do all cooling systems deplete No-Rosion at the same rate?

A.  No. A number of highly variable factors affect the overall rate at which No-Rosion is depleted from an engine cooling system.  These factors include system cleanliness, frequency of operation, coolant water quality, coolant flow rate, system temperature, metallurgy of system components, tightness of engine seals and gaskets, and a number of other factors. Extensive in-field testing indicates that a one year/30,000 frequency of No-Rosion addition is sufficient for nearly all applications. But proper product application can be assured by using our Coolant Test Packet. To view the results of No-Rosion 5 Year Coolant Corrosion Tests, click here.

Q.  Is No-Rosion compatible with the antifreeze currently in my vehicles cooling system?

A.  Yes.  It is compatible with all types of antifreeze, including ethylene glycol and non-toxic propylene glycol.  This includes conventional silicate-based (green-colored), Extended Life (orange-colored), and Universal Extended Life (yellow-colored) antifreezes.

To learn more about antifreeze types, choices, and possible confusion regarding their applications, click here.

Q.  Why is it necessary to flush a cooling system in the first place?

A.  Without No-Rosion, it is necessary to flush a cooling system every year or two when traditional type antifreeze is used. Glycol in antifreeze breaks down over time to form glycolic acid that reduces the pH of coolant and causes corrosion.  Byproducts of combustion also contaminate coolant, causing further acidic degradation of coolant.  At these lower pH levels, tiny rust particles begin to form, and combine with silicates in antifreeze and hardness in water to form insoluble gels.  The gels reduce coolant flow through radiator tubes and reduces the system’s ability to transfer heat.  Flushing removes harmful glycolic acid, combustion contaminants, and antifreeze gels.

Q.  Does application of No-Rosion allow me to flush less often?

A.  Yes.  No-Rosion contains an ingredient called borate, which adds reserve alkalinity to coolant.  Alkalinity continually buffers the pH of the coolant to safe levels.  This prevents acidic degradation of coolant, and associated damage from glycolic acid and acidic combustion byproduct contaminants.  No-Rosion also contains polymer dispersants that prevent the formation of antifreeze gels.  For this reason, the proper application of No-Rosion allows the time between cooling system flushes to be extended to 5 years.

Q.  Will No-Rosion rejuvenate old, broken down antifreeze? 

A.  Yes, but only to a degree.  The sodium hydroxide in No-Rosion will elevate the pH of coolant to a degree, thus neutralizing glycolic acid and creating a slight rejuvenating effect.  However, antifreeze more than 2-3 years old should be drained, flushed, and refilled with fresh antifreeze prior to application of No-Rosion.

Q.  Why is No-Rosion dark pink in color?

A.  The color serves a functional purpose. No-Rosion contains a pH-indicator called phenolphthalein. When added to coolant at the proper dose, it remains pink at a pH of 8.5 or higher. But if the pH of coolant drops below 8.5, it goes to clear. This allows quick and easy visual indication as to whether the pH of straight water coolant has dropped to a dangerously low level. This product feature was originally developed for ocean liner and locomotive engines, which typically run straight water engine coolant. When used in these industrial applications, No-Rosion's built-in pH indicator can be quite handy. If combustion byproducts reduce coolant pH to dangerously corrosive levels, product is added until the color of the coolant returns to pink.  

Q.  Why does No-Rosion seem to lose its color when it is added to my vehicles cooling system?

A.  When No-Rosion is added to an automotive cooling system, it immediately acts to neutralize any existing weak acids.  Therefore, you may notice a loss of the pink color as the alkalinity in No-Rosion acts to neutralize acids.  Dyes in antifreeze also interfere with the pH indicator, thus making this effect difficult to distinguish unless No-Rosion is used in straight water coolant.

Q.  Is there any advantage to using straight water and No-Rosion as coolant, WITHOUT ANTIFREEZE?

A.  Yes.  Straight water has nearly TWICE the heat transfer capacity as glycol-based antifreeze, and nearly 50% more heat transfer capacity than a 50/50 mix.  This causes cooling systems containing glycol to run hotter. Heat is transferred from engine cylinder heads to coolant, and then from coolant to the external environment via the radiator. This net transfer of heat is significantly aided by waters superior heat transfer capability.  This is particularly the case if your vehicle was built prior to the 1960s.  Engines in older cars were originally designed to use alcohol for antifreeze. Using the viscous glycol blends of today can cause overheating.  Glycol also gels in the presence of engine oil, which can cause severe bearing damage and engine failure if even a slight amount of glycol coolant seeps into the crankcase.  Older engines having cylinder heads torqued to less than 40 ft/lbs can fall prey to this type of damage.  However, straight water coolant leaves system metals vulnerable to corrosion.  No-Rosion provides 100% corrosion protection when used with straight water coolant, thus completely solving this problem.

Q.  Will I need a higher pressure radiator cap if I switch to straight water coolant with No-Rosion?

A.  Maybe. While it's true that water has a lower boiling point than a 50/50 mix, it's not that much lower.  At normal pressure, water coolant will boil at 212 degrees F, whereas a 50/50 mix will boil at around 225 degrees F. When coolant is heated by the engine, it expands and creates pressure inside the cooling system.  This pressure is regulated by the radiator cap. As the pressure rises, so does the boiling point of the coolant.  As a general rule of thumb, each PSI (pound per square inch) increases boiling point by about 3.25 degrees F. So if a 15 PSI radiator cap is used, the boiling point of water coolant is around 250 degrees F, compared to around 265 degrees F for a 50/50 mix.  Comparatively, the boiling point of water coolant is around 230 degrees F with a 7 PSI cap, and 240 degrees F with a 12 PSI cap.  So just a few PSI can make a fairly significant difference in boilover protection. This may be important if your vehicle will be driven in very hot weather, or used for towing.

Q.  What is the most common cause of overheating?

A.  Scales and deposits in the cooling system. Over time, silicates in antifreeze and hardness in water become insoluble, and combine to form antifreeze gels.  This process is accelerated by using aged antifreeze, or tap water with a high concentration of hardness.  As antifreeze gels circulate through the system, they reduce coolant flow through radiator tubes, which in turn reduces heat transfer and increases operating temperatures.  If  antifreeze is not drained, flushed, and refilled every 18-24 months, gels adhere to high heat-transfer areas, baking onto metal surfaces to form scales and deposits.  Scales only 1/16th of an inch thick decrease heat transfer by 40%, causing overheating, hot spot, and associated engine damage. And deposits in radiator tubes can significantly reduce coolant flow, further increasing the likelihood of overheating.

Q.  What is hardness?

A.  Water contaminants known as calcium and magnesium combine to form what is known as hardness. These are essentially mineral materials from the earth. The problem is that they readily enter and exit solution when in water.  When they do drop out of solution, they can form damaging scales and deposits, as already mentioned above. If you have ever seen a white or yellow crusty material at the end of a leaking faucet, for example, this is hardness. You also see hardness on shower walls. this is because when water evaporates, it leaves behind its mineral content, which includes hardness.

Q.  What causes damage to the water pump?

A.  Antifreeze gel, due to its chemical composition, is very gritty. Think of it as liquid sandpaper.  As it passes through the working parts of the water pump, it erodes the impeller, which can contribute to increased operating temperatures due to decreased coolant flow.  Eventually the gel makes its way to the seals of the water pump, causing leaks and premature water pump failure.

Q.  How does No-Rosion solve the problem of antifreeze gel?

A.  No-Rosion contains complex polymer dispersants that prevent the silicates in antifreeze, and the hardness in water, from becoming insoluble to form gel.  It also lubricates the working parts and seals of water pumps, preventing associated damage and failure. 

Q.  Do I need to add a water pump lubricant if I use No-Rosion?

A.  No. The polymer dispersants in No-Rosion provide the necessary lubricity to water pumps.

Q.  Will No-Rosion actively clean or remove existing scales and deposits in already-fouled systems?

A.  No.  However, there is a slight tendency over time to reduce deposit thickness, as the polymers in No-Rosion continually pass over existing deposit surfaces, slowly putting them back into solution.

Q.  What makes Extended Life antifreeze blends different?

A.  Extended Life antifreeze, also known as Dex-Cool or OAT (organic acid technology) does not rely on inorganic silicates as corrosion inhibitors, as does conventional IAT (inorganic antifreeze technology).  Rather, it contains 100% organic materials called carboxylates. If/when carboxylates become insoluble, carboxylate gels are less abrasive then silicate gels, thus not causing damage to the water pump.  This allows an extended service interval of 5 years for vehicles which started with Extended Life antifreeze as factory fill.

Q.  Should I convert my cars cooling system to Extended Life antifreeze?

A.  No. The carboxylates in orange-colored Extended Life antifreeze require 3,000 miles of driving before they passivate, or protect, the metal surfaces in a cooling system. Comparatively, silicates in conventional green-colored antifreeze passivate almost immediately. Passivation involves the electrochemical formation of a protective surface film that bonds to the metal, preventing corrosion.  The mechanism of passivation is reliant upon flow and heat.  Obviously these two conditions are absent when an engine is not run for extended periods of times, as is frequently the case with antique/collector cars and race cars.

Through research, Applied Chemical Specialties has observed that passivation is a dynamic process, in which surfaces films continually slough off and replace themselves from residual inhibitor contained within the surrounding coolant solution. Therefore, if one begins with metal surfaces that were originally passivated with silicates from traditional antifreeze, and then switches to the carboxlate-containing antifreeze, an interesting thing occurs.  As the existing silicate film sloughs off, there is no replacement silicate present in the surrounding coolant to re-passivate.  And because there will be little, if any, exposed metal to which the carboxylates can electrochemically bond, the mechanism of carboxylate passivation remains incomplete.  The technical term used to describe this breakdown is bridging.  As time passes, silicate passivation deteriorates, and carboxylate passivation remains incomplete.  The net effect is a metal surface that progressively loses corrosion protection.  Over time, this leads to damage and component failure.

Q.  What have antifreeze manufacturers done to address this issue of bridging?

A.  They have warned dealerships and consumers, via various Technical Service Bulletins, not to mix antifreeze types, especially when topping off a system.

Q.  What if my vehicle came with Extended Life antifreeze as factory fill?

A.  Continue using it.  If it has never been contaminated with traditional silicate-based antifreeze, it will provide the 5 year service interval as advertised by the manufacturers.  And add No-Rosion, as it is fully compatible with the carboxylates in Extended Life antifreeze, and still provides a full range of incremental benefits, including enhanced corrosion and electrolysis protection.

Q.  What is the chemistry behind the yellow-colored Universal Extended Life antifreeze?

A.  It is a hybrid antifreeze, similar to what has been used in Europe in prior years.  It contains both organic and inorganic inhibitor ingredients, and is sold for use with either traditional green-colored or Extended-Life orange-colored antifreeze.

Q.  Does No-Rosion protect against electrolysis from galvanic action between dissimilar metals?

A.  Yes. Electrolysis from galvanic action occurs when a very small electrical current passes between metals having different electronegativities, such as iron and aluminum. Coolant acts as an electrolyte solution, causing the more electronegative metal (such as aluminum) to gradually be dissolved as electrons are stripped from its surface.  No-Rosion contains ingredients protect aluminum surfaces from electrolysis. A molecular-thick film is formed on the surface of aluminum that inhibits the transfer of electrons, yet still allows heat transfer to properly occur.  To view results of the No-Rosion Multi-Metal Electrolysis Erosion tests, click here.

Q.  Are there different types of electrolysis?

A.  Yes. Electrolysis can occur from galvanic action between dissimilar metals, as already described. But it can also occur via stray current. It is generally recognized that stray current electrolysis is present when more than 300 mV (millivolts) is passing through current. Current less than 300 mV is categorized as galvanic action.

We recently assisted Jeff Smith, the former senior technical editor of Car Craft Magazine, with in-depth analysis of an electrolysis problem that plagued his car for years.  To read his article, click here.

Q.  Does No-Rosion protect against electrolysis from stray current?

A.  No. Stray current electrolysis is very destructive, and can cause failures to radiators and other components within weeks. It is caused by an improperly grounded underhood electrical device, or by a shorted wire. It requires immediate mechanical correction in order to prevent damage. No-Rosion does not provide protection from stray current electrolysis.

Q.  How can I determine if my cooling system has stray current electrolysis?

A.  By using a voltmeter. Ground one of the electrodes on an underhood component, while dipping the other electrode into the coolant.  Take a reading. If the reading is over 300 mV, or 0.3 volts, it is highly likely that stray current is present. Be sure to take multiple readings, with the engine running, not running, and with various electrical components turned on and off. Often the source of the stray current can be determined via a process of elimination by turning various components on and off.

Q.  Can changing to an aluminum radiator cause electrolysis in my cooling system?

A.  Yes.  Depending on the quantity and types of different metals in a cooling system, addition of an aluminum radiator can increase electrolytic current that passes through coolant. It is important to realize that most "aluminum" radiators are actually not composed of pure aluminum. In fact, most are composed of complex, lightweight aluminum alloys that can also contain zinc, magnesium, manganese, lithium, and copper - all of which can be highly reactive. 

Q.  Is a sacrificial anode, such as zinc or magnesium, effective in combating electrolysis?

A.  Yes. But the protection provided by sacrificial anodes is unfortunately localized. So the more remote areas of the cooling system are not provided adequate protection by the anode. If No-Rosion is used, protection will exist within the entire cooling system, thus making it a more effective means of protecting against electrolysis than a sacrificial anode.

Q.  How does No-Rosion protect wet sleeve cylinder liners from cavitation erosion?

A.  Most diesel engines wet sleeved engines. The area where the coolant comes into contact with metal wet sleeve cylinder liners is extremely hot.  Localized boiling occurs, regardless of coolant type.  As the coolant nears the boiling phase, tiny vacuoles are formed in the coolant solution.  The vibration of the cylinder liners from the running of the engine causes these vacuoles to implode.  The countless implosions of vacuoles cause the metal surfaces of the liners to slowly erode, causing premature engine failure.  No-Rosion contains an ingredient called nitrite, which forms a highly resilient, molecular thin oxide film that protects the metal surfaces of wet sleeve cylinder liners when the vacuoles implode, thus preventing erosion. 

Q.  Should I use distilled water as coolant?

A.  Yes. But only in a 50/50 mix. Distilled water should not be used as straight water coolant, because it can cause damage to system metals. The reason has to do with how distilled water is created.

During the distillation process, water is vaporized into its gaseous phase, so all impurities are left behind.  These impurities include a number of minerals, including calcium and magnesium, the two components of hardness.  The water is then condensed back into its liquid phase, so the resulting liquid is pure water. In fact, some of the purest water on earth.  The problem is that distillation strips impurities from water, resulting in water molecules that are electrochemically imbalanced. So distilled water will actually strip electrons from the metals in a cooling system as it attempts to rebalance itself electrochemically. This can result in damage to metals in a cooling system.

Using distilled water in combination with 50% antifreeze effectively cuts the amount of distilled water in half. By compounding with glycol, it will not cause damage to metals in a cooling system. For this reason, it is safe to use distilled water in a 50/50 mix.

Q.  What type of water is best to use as straight water coolant?

A.  Reverse osmosis (RO) water. Rather than stripping impurities from water, RO filters them through a membrane. The resulting water is electrochemically stable, and not harmful to metals in a cooling system. RO water is every bit as pure as distilled water, but without the risk of electrochemical stripping of electrons from system metals.

Q.  Where can I find reverse osmosis (RO) water?

A.  At the local supermarket. Look for DRINKING WATER, which is available in gallon bottles. But do not confuse it with SPRING WATER, which is often high in mineral content. We have performed extensive testing of major brands and generic brands of bottled drinking water, and found that it is almost always composed of RO water.

Q.  What are the benefits of using purified water, such as distilled or RO?

A.  It lacks the impurities of tap water.  Without impurities, its ability to function as an electrolyte is greatly diminished, thereby minimizing damage from electrolysis.  It contains no hardness, meaning it will not form scales and deposits that can cause overheating. It does not contain other damaging contaminants, such as chloride or sulfate. And importantly, it enhances the overall performance of No-Rosion, allowing it to more effectively function and provide the full range of benefits that it has been engineered to provide.

Q.  Can I safely use softened water as coolant?

A.  No. It was previously our recommendation that softened water be used as engine coolant. This is because, like reverse osmosis, water softening removes impurities in a manner that results in water molecules being electrochemically balanced.  However, we have since changed our recommendation. The reason for this change is that some water softeners do not effectively remove chloride and sulfate contaminants from tap water.

Q.  How do water contaminants such as chloride or sulfate cause damage?

A.  Chloride reacts with water over time to form hydrochloric acid. And sulfate reacts with water over time to form sulfuric acid. Both of these acids have very low pH levels, and are extremely corrosive to metals in a cooling system - especially aluminum. We see more aluminum radiator failures as a result of using tap water that is high in chloride than from any other cause of damage - including electrolysis.

Q.  What is the source of chloride in tap water?

A.  Chloride can come from a number of naturally-occurring sources. Tap water in cities that are near an ocean is often high in chloride. This is especially the case in cities where ocean water is processed in desalination plants to create tap water. Runoff from salted roads during the winter can also make its way into underground wells and water tables, creating high chloride level in tap water. It is also a byproduct of oilfield activities as well, so can also be found in high concentration in geographic areas near oil drilling. And it is used in making various forms of aggregate for paving of new roads.   

Q.  Will No-Rosion protect against damage from chloride?

A.  It depends on the amount of chloride present in the water being used as coolant. The more that is present, the greater the amount of acid that is formed. If there is a large enough amount of strong acid formed, it will fully deplete the reserve alkalinity protection that No-Rosion provides. This will result in rapid degradation of coolant pH, and severe corrosion to metals - again, especially aluminum.

Q.  Can I determine whether my tap water contains too much chloride?

A.  Yes. We offer a Water Test Packet that can be used for testing water that you use as engine coolant. The ASTM has established a maximum level of 25 ppm (parts per million) for chloride in engine coolant. Our Water Test Packet is a quick, easy, cost-effective way of determining whether any type of water is low enough in chloride to be safely used as engine coolant. For more information on this product, please refer to the link at the bottom of this page.

Q.  Should I switch to a waterless engine coolant to avoid issues with water?

A.  We recommend against it, for multiple reasons.  Not least of which is the fact that OE cooling systems in modern vehicles are designed to function with a 50/50 mix of water and glycol, which has a viscosity that is approximately 1/3 that of waterless (100% glycol) engine coolant.  By running engine coolant that is substantially more viscous than a system is designed for, flow rates will be reduced, and hot spots could develop in lower-flow areas. This can lead to localized overheating, even though your temperature gauge will indicate otherwise, resulting in sticking valves, and piston damage.

Would you consider running 90W gear oil in your engine?  Of course not.  Why?  Because it is significantly more viscous than the engine was designed for, and will cause damage.  It's no different when considering the use of waterless (100% glycol) coolant in an engine that was designed to run a 50/50 mix -- or in the case of earlier vintage engines, designed to run on straight water plus methyl/ethyl alcohol.  Note: Water, or water plus alcohol, or water plus No-Rosion, has a viscosity roughly 1/10 that of waterless (100% glycol) engine coolant.

There are a number of other heat transfer and performance limitations associated with waterless coolant that should preclude it's use in an engine. This is especially the case for older engines with non-hardened valve seats.  We spent 9 months researching waterless coolant, both in the laboratory, and in a fleet of test vehicles. To view our EVANS WATERLESS COOLANT OVERVIEW OF RESEARCH RESULTS, click here

Q.  For long storage periods, should I drain the coolant and leave the system dry?

A.  No. The single biggest enemy to metals in a cooling system is air - specifically, the oxygen contained in air.  This is because oxygen is the key driver, or chemical component, to the oxidation, or corrosion, process.  For iron cooling system components, the chemical equation for corrosion is:

                                 Fe + O₂ + H₂O  =>  Fe₂O₃ + H₂

where Fe is iron, O₂ is oxygen, H₂O is water, Fe₂O₃ is rust, and H₂ is hydrogen gas.

And for aluminum cooling system components, the chemical equation for corrosion is:

                                 Al + O₂ + H₂O  =>  Al₂O₃ + H₂ 

where Al is aluminum, O₂ is oxygen, H₂O is water, Al₂O₃ is aluminum oxide salt, and H₂ is hydrogen gas.

If a system is completely devoid of oxygen, it is chemically impossible for the corrosion process to take place.  Unfortunately, there is always some amount of oxygen in liquid solutions. Water contains what is known as dissolved oxygen, which is oxygen that is not in gaseous phase. Dissolved oxygen will drive the corrosion process.

Draining a cooling system and storing it dry is the wrong thing to do. This introduces enormous quantities of air (and therefore oxygen) to metal surfaces.  When combined with even the slightest amount of moisture, such as humidity in air, the corrosion process thrives, and the system will corrode badly.  Some automotive museums have made this error, only to discover this fact many years later when they attempt to return vehicles to the road for driving.  For this reason, No-Rosion is used by many automotive museums in their long-term preservation efforts.

Q.  How can I removed dissolved oxygen from coolant, and prevent corrosion?

A.  Use No-Rosion. The product formula contains an oxygen scavenger ingredient. It chemically removes dissolved oxygen from either a 50/50 mix or straight water coolant, preventing corrosion. No-Rosion is the only coolant additive available on the market today that contains a commercial grade oxygen scavenger. This is one of the reasons why it outperforms all other competitive products in its ability to inhibit corrosion.

Q.  Does No-Rosion pass ASTM tests?

A.  Yes.  It passes the ASTM D3306 Standard Specification for Engine Coolant for Automobile and Light-Duty Service, allowing it to function as a fully-formulated engine coolant, even when used without antifreeze.  And it far exceeds all ASTM D2570 Simulated Service corrosion standards, as indicated by the following laboratory test data:

      * Weight loss, in milligrams, due to corrosion, using ASTM corrosive water, 190^o F., 23 gal/min, 7 weeks duration.

Q.  What is the ASTM?

A.  ASTM is the American Society for Testing and Materials. It is a globally recognized leader in the development and delivery of international voluntary consensus standards. Over 12,000 ASTM standards are used around the world to improve product quality, enhance safety, facilitate market access and trade, and build consumer confidence. ASTM standards act as the tools for consumer satisfaction and competitiveness for companies across a wide range of industries. Through 141 technical standard-writing committees, ASTM serves diverse industries ranging from metals to construction, petroleum to consumer products, and many more.

One of these 141 technical committees is the D15 Committee for Engine Coolant and Related Fluids. The D15 Committee plays a preeminent role in the engine coolants industry, and addresses issues relating to test methods for reserve alkalinity of engine coolants and inhibitors, cavitation corrosion and erosion-corrosion characteristics of aluminum pumps and engine coolants, testing engine coolants in car, light truck service and heavy duty engines and specifications for various formulations of engine coolants for light and heavy duty service.

Applied Chemical Specialties is an active member of the D15 Committee, and contributes to coolant technology development through our various research efforts.

To learn more about ASTM, visit www.astm.org.

Q.  Is No-Rosion compatible with stop-leak and water-wetting coolant additives?

A.  Yes, there are no compatibility issues between No-Rosion and these types of other additives.

Q.  Will No-Rosion cause any damage to plastic or rubber cooling system components?

A.  No. No-Rosion will not cause premature drying, cracking, or failure of rubber or plastic components.

Q.  What is the shelf-life of No-Rosion?

A.  5 years.  No-Rosion should be stored in temperatures between 35 degrees and 90 degrees F. It freezes at approximately 30 degrees F., and boils at approximately 218 degrees F.

Q.  Does No-Rosion provide freeze protection?

A.  No.  No-Rosion does not contain any glycol, and therefore provides no protection against freezing.   

Q.  How does No-Rosion benefit the environment?

A.  Because No-Rosion extends the effective life of antifreeze to 5 years, this means less toxic antifreeze is introduced to the environment, due to extended service intervals and less frequent draining and flushing.

Q.  How does No-Rosion compare to other cooling system corrosion inhibitors?

A.  No-Rosion is the only additive capable of passing the ASTM D3306 specification to be used as a fully-formulated engine coolant, even when used in straight water engine coolant. This is significant, as no other additive on the market today has the ability to be used as a stand-alone engine coolant. Accordingly, No-Rosion is just as much of a coolant concentrate as it is a coolant additive.  

Q.  How will No-Rosion save me time and money?

A.  Less frequent draining and flushing of coolant saves you time.  And less frequent refilling of antifreeze saves you money, because you purchase antifreeze less often.  Less corrosion and damage to cooling system metals significantly lengthens the effective life of radiators, heater cores, water pumps, and engine components. So you will encounter fewer expensive failures and breakdowns.

If you have questions not found in this sheet, contact: info@NoRosion.com. 

DID YOU KNOW...   No-Rosion was in the cooling systems and fuel systems of fifteen award-winning classics at the 2023 Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance!

  Copyright 2024 Applied Chemical Specialties, Inc.